Perhaps once or twice a year, the sand here will arange itself just so, and the swell will hit that sand just so, and the tide will be just so, and you can get barreled for an hour or two one afternoon, all by yourself, like this guy.
Perhaps once or twice a year, the sand here will arange itself just so, and the swell will hit that sand just so, and the tide will be just so, and you can get barreled for an hour or two one afternoon, all by yourself, like this guy.